We eventually join our tour and hop in a small van that heads for the Tuscan region of Val d'Orcia (orcia valley) . It's the south part of Tuscany, apparently more stronger and bold wines than that of the northern Chianti region.
Joining us on our tour are two American couples. One in the late 50s early 60s from Ohio and the other a youngish New York couple that are dressed like they're about to go yachting in the hamptons. The Ohio couple are very funny, he reminds me of Ned Flanders the way he talks. Our tour is led by a pocket rocket of a man named Matteo. He gives us his life story, telling us he's born in Sicily, travelled to Miami where he lived for 3 years. There he met his wife from the Dominican Republic and they have just had their first child 4 days ago. He's also a cage fighter apparently, MMA fighter to be honest. And he drives like a lunatic!
Piecing this altogether, and being rather judgemental I conclude that this dude has lived a pretty hard and fast life. He's either had his fair share of drugs in his time or he has drunk about 10 espressos this morning. Crazy character.
The drive out of town is rather quick and like many European cities it doesn't take too long until you're out of the city and in rural countryside. We bypass the town of Sienna and reach the val d'Orcia wine region. First stop is Montalcino which we get to within an hour and a half. It's a small quiet village town high on the hill. It's medieval in character and presents as a fortress like compound from afar. Once within its streets it's rather pleasant and quaint. There's not much here though. It really is a small village that has many wine shops and cellar doors. That's it. Oh, and of course a church!
After strolling around and capturing the views from up high, it's 560m above sea level here, we head to the Corte Pivone winery. The entrance driveway is stunning, a cypress lined gravel road. I feel like the ghosts of Maximus Decimus Meridius and his murdered wife and son will appear at any second. Cue Gladiator music!
The region of Montalcino is famous for its Brunello, a 100% Sangiovese wine that is aged for a minimum of 3years in oak and 2 in bottle to get the DOCG rating. The winery itself is an organic winery which produces only 20-30,000 bottles a year, so smallish. They focus on quality however, so we're told. We are shown the whole process they go through, from the double hand picked selection, to the cask rooms and bottling rooms. The cellar is an amazing concrete vaulted arch structure below ground with a steady temp of 14-18 degrees. One of the coolest cellars I've seen. Pun definitely intended!
We try the wines and they're very good but the aged Brunello is awesome and somehow sim lets me buy a bottle. Win!
After we head for lunch in a small town of San Quirico d"Orcia . Lunch is rather simple but good. It's nice to have a meal with a group of people at a table and chat.
Next stop is another, you guessed it, small medieval town, this ones called Pienza. We sample a few of the local Pecorino cheeses and purchase some to eat later tonight. The town is similar in character to the last couple we've seen. High on the hill, quaint streets and amazing views out over the vineyards and countryside.
After strolling around here for an hour we head to our next town, Montepulciano which is a wine I've had before in restaurants. The town is probably the biggest we have visited today but by no means is it large. Still very much a small village. That being said the main church here, the duomo, is enormous for a smallish town. It honestly wouldn't be too far off the size of St Mary's in Sydney. We've noticed that in all these towns. The biggest building is the church. We head to the Telosa Winery cellar, which is just off the main square of the town. Evidently this square was where they shot one of the scenes in Twilight, New Moon.
We enter the cellar door at the street level and it's kind of unimpressive, but then we are guided down to the cellar. It's amazing. We spiral down through the soft and wet rock, probably 3 levels until we reach a vaulted cellar room. Theres shell and oyster fossils in the rock which points to the fact this was probably under water many thousands of years ago. From a wine perspective this elaborates on the mineral rich soil of the arra. As we descend down there's many tunnels coming off the room and were told this place was used as a refuge during WWII. The tasting room is again amazing. A beautiful bunker space. The wines are nice but not as nice as the Brunello of earlier for me.
Whilst it's beautiful countryside and very peaceful, theres not much else to these small towns, apart from the vineyards. What amazes me is the similarity in landscape to parts of Australia. It feels somewhat familiar.
Its now 4:30 ish and we head back in the van to Florence. It's been a much more slower paced day which is nice. One we probably needed.
We literally race back into town. I know Matteo has a newborn kid at home but seriously, why so fast! This guy is a character. He starts telling us about his side business in truffles and how he's trying to get them to NY and the restaurants there, the only thing is that Umbrian truffles have a monopoly on the export market and he can't do it legally. He tells the New York couple to take his business card and tell there friends or people they know back home. We find it hysterical but the New Yorkers, not so much. This guy is such a smooth operator!
We get back to Florence a bit after 6 in the evening. The sun is out and it's the best weather we've had since we've been here so we get him to drop us near the river. We head back to Gelateria La Carraia which was our favourite so far. I had to get another scoop of Baccio. So good. Sims a fruity girl with passion fruit, fragola (strawberry), Limone and pear her favourites. I prefer the creamy ones, I'm a chocolate and hazelnut nut. But I also get a scoop of the salted peanut today. It's all so good.
We sit by the road overlooking the river and the bridge before wandering back to our apartment.
We decide to skip dinner and eat in, having the cheese from today and some left over salami (well for me anyway). Sims happy as CSI comes on the TV and she gets her fix, while I too am happy as after, I watch the first game of the Euros.
Overall, a pleasant day under the Tuscan sun.
mat + sim
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