We take one last look at the view from our balcony, before heading down via cristoforo Colombo one last time down to the ferry port. We've played Positano well, arrived by bus a couple of days ago at the top of the street allowing us to walk downhill and now leaving down by the water on ferry. When travelling with luggage the saying "it's all downhill from here" has positive connotations.
We wave goodbye to Positano which is draped in early morning cloud at the upper parts of the mountain and a layered fog along its bays and inlets. The ferry ride to Capri is a little chilly. The suns out but the wind has a bite to it.
We arrive at the Marina Grande, which is busy with tourists. Many boats are dropping people off just for day trips so it's a bit chaotic.
We look for the best way to get up to Capri town. There's a bus as well as the most extravagant taxis we've ever seen. But we decide on taking the funicular. I love them as they make me sing "Funiculee, Funiculaaar. " I know they're not the words but hey, who cares!
We get to the top and it's a crowded but pleasant little piazza with lots of small shopping streets. In fact the shopping here is insane. It's like rodeo drive meets champs élysées on top of a mountain!
Sim, God bless her as she's carry her 80litre backpack, still finds time to window shop, spotting a potential bargain on a handbag for only €320. We later work out the price tag was missing a 0.
We head to our hotel, drop off our bags and hit the streets of Capri for a walk. We head up via Sopramonte along its narrow pedestrian streets. The whole island appears to be very walkable and pedestrian friendly. The streets are sized for people not cars at 2-3m wide. There are a few key vehicle roads up from marinas as well as the road connecting Capri to Anacapri, but otherwise it's all a series of narrow streets that are more like paths. The only vehicles on them are these little half golf buggy half airport baggage trucks that zip around carrying luggage, inventory and elderly, rich elderly too as its €20 for the privilege.
What's great about these streets are they crate a real intimate and compact feeling, with buildings dotted within the landscape, and whilst there are many hotels, the island is dominated by trees, gardens and landscape. We keep walking and head out along via Matermania which leads down to a bushy coastal walk.
We pass by the Arco naturale, a rock arch formation before descending many steps down and into a grotto cave. We descend more stairs down through the trees, fearful now at the thought that what goes down must come up and some point! We pass the modernist classic building Villa Malaparte, a 3level pinky/red villa set out on a small rock peninsula overlooking the sea back eat to the Amalfi Coast, drained by architect Adalberto Libera. The cool feature of the building is the steps up to the trafficable roof terrace. Pretty spectacular. 
We walk for another 10 to 15 minutes, enjoying the serene qualities of being in the bush. The chirping of birds is ever present. We turn a corner and get our first glimpse at Faraglioni, a cluster of stacked rock formations. It's quite a defining point to the island of Capri. We head down some more stairs to the base of Faraglioni and the beach club, La Fontelina. It's a pretty extravagant place, where lots of gorgeous people with tanned bodies are spread out and lounging around amongst the rocks. Wait til I unleash my strapping white physique on them. The beach club is in an amazing location, but don't they know it. They charge through the roof for a visit. But as they say, you only live once so we pay for a beach umbrella, a towel and two beach lounges and settle in for the afternoon. After taking a swim we lay back and catch some rays (yeah, I just said that). At 3 we head up for lunch on the deck (ahh...that's more like it) , where sim orders a simple but delicious pasta with cherry tomatoes and olive oil. For me, I have an awesome cheese filled ravioli in tomato sauce. It's rich but compelling.
We head back down to our deck chairs have another swim and just relax - taking in the amazing place this is.
It's now after 5 and we reluctantly decide it's time to head back. Reluctant as we don't want to say goodbye to this place but also we don't want to face all those stairs on the way up. Sim straps our wet cosies to the back of our backpack and we head off. It's a very daggy way to leave a very trendy place. Us to a T.
Walking up the huge amount of steps is made more the easier by the views. It's incredible. We reach the top of the stairs and the road via Tragara, with the famous Hotel Punto Tragara on its point. We stop at the lookout (even though it seems the whole island is one big lookout) and stop for Limone granite. €5 euro, absolute robbery. We continue along the path which is lined with amazing brick and stone walls, beautiful gardens either side and stairs leading your eye up and and down that take people to their hotels and villas. The scale is really unique. It feels like I'm walking through the gardens of Dorn from the Game of Thrones series.
We make it back to the Hotel Mamela and check into our room briefly, before continuing our swimming odyssey in the hotel pool. It's another great view from the pool deck area. We set up for the evening on some deck chairs and order yet another negroni and Aperol spritz. We demolish the entire bowl of complimentary pistachios, although the peanuts....pleeeeaaaaassse!
Second class nut! Ain't nobody got time for that. 
The sun is starting to disappear behind Monte Solare and a shadow sweeps across Capri. With the sun gone we head in and get ready to head out for the evening. We wander up into the piazzetta and explore the shop windows some more. It's a little less crowded now as the day trippers have gone, but still a lovely atmosphere. We look out over the funicular to the west and are surprised to see the sun still setting. Mount Solare must be quite tall. We catch a tiny orange bus up to Anacapri, the town above Capri it means. It's much much quieter up here, although it is 9pm on a Monday now. We wander its narrow streets and check out the Piazza San Nicola. The highlight is the Chiesa Di Santa Sofia which is beautifully lit up against the blue twilight sky. We stop for pizza and some drinks. We notice again that there's lots of dogs around. People seem to take dogs everywhere, restaurants, on ferries, long distance trains, hotels. It's really good dog culture here.
It's now pretty late and we hop on the Mini bus down the mountain to Capri. It's a crazy road of switchbacks and sheer cliff face drops. Hooning around in this too heavy bus seems fraught with danger.
We make it back alive and back to our hotel.
What a day, paradises little sister is matching it with her big sister.
Everyday here seems to keep upping the last - having a great day. As the Beatles said on their Sgt Peppers album, It's getting better all the time.
mat + sim
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