We wander up the wet and puddle filled streets into the town centre. It's a pretty and very quaint streetscape. All the footpaths are wide and there's clear bike lanes and bus lanes and not much traffic, although it is midday on a Saturday in Spain, probably half the population are still asleep.
We head into the Neo gothic cathedral deal Buen Pastor. The square around it is planted with lots of flowers and gardens.
The rain intermittently stops and starts as we stroll though the town centre, up along the river and over the beautiful lamp post lined bridges into Zurriola. Where close to sea now and it's quite chilly. Not we were expecting from this supposed beach paradise. We wander past he interesting Centro Kursal building, a modern conference and convention centre on the waterfront before heading back over the river and into old town San Sebastián. It's s much more cosy and compact streetscape here. Pretty much all pedestrian only filled with lots of markets, butchers, cheese shops, restaurants and bars, lots of bars. It's 12:30 now and the bars are get packed with people drinking beers and eating pintxos. Beer is the thing to drink here it would seem.
We wander the streets some more, doing a little more window shopping for sim before heading to a pintxos bar ourselves. They can be rather tight and congested and as a first time foreigner it's a daunting experience. Do you really just grab a plate load of food and stand outside and eat it? Seems rather trusting. We ask a waitress to point out the ones with vegetables for sim. She says, you eat fish yeah? It's gone be a long 3 days.
The food is nice but very rich. I try 3 small dishes, one is two small sausages wrapped in jamon, ok but would've been better warmer. The next a prawn, Jamon and creamy topped egg on bread; and the third a pepper stuffed with egg and mince on bacon. Oh yeah they all come served on bread. Washed down with a beer and it's nice. Wouldn't say I'm a huge fan at this stage, as most seem to be rather cold.
We head out after for a walk through the old town streets some more. It really is a charming little place. There's a nice buzz and busyness to the place without feeling overcrowded. We head out to the harbour port area and the sun is poking through the clouds. There's more people out and about now and the neat little park and garden, Alderdi Eder is buzzing with kids playing, buskers and stalls. It's a nice spot to people watch along the water. It's now 3ish so we wander back along the beachfront to the hotel. One of the noticeable things is the tide. It fluctuates seemingly a lot, 50-70m of beach comes and goes with it. Rather interesting to see the change.
It's a beatific beach. Pity about the weather.
After a good few hours rest we decide to head back into town, catching the bus in this time. It's a shirt 10minute ride and drops us right in the heart of the city at the nice plaza square, Boulevard Zumardia. We stroll around the harbour front for a bit. The sun is out and it's a pleasant evening. We wander around the port area and up to the aquarium at the point which leads to the sea side walking path around Monte Urgull. It's quite amazing here. There's a great view out over the Bay La Concha to the small island of Santa Clara, around to Ondaretta and over to the opposing Monte Igueldo, which frames San Sebastián. It's such a pleasant evening with a small coastal breeze. Sim is a little annoyed at me for wanting to do the walk as she just spent an hour doing her hair.
Nonetheless we set off and make our way along the picturesque coastline cliffs. On the eastern side we return into old town passing through the animated square if San Telmo in front of the museum. We stroll the busy streets before stopping at a small bar where we luckily get a table out the front. Sim has an Aperol spritz and I get a G&T as well as some mushroom and eggplant croquettes for sim. It's a good gin and tonic too, going down a treat. We sit for a while and just take in the vibrant street life of old town. There's lots of dogs here again. Very funny wandering in and out of the bars. There seems to be a few hens and bucks party's too. It's interesting though that it doesn't feel seedy or grubby in anyway. People are out with their kids mingling in bars with people who are out for a big night. It's refreshing to see.
A little unsure if we will find some vego pintxos options for sim we peruse the restaurant menus on offer. We settle on a place just off the Constitution Plaza.
The food is ok, slightly underwhelming. I order a local fish dish, Kokotxa, pronounced cocochas. It's hake fish, but more specifically the gelatinous fleshy part under the fishes jaw. It's served simply with oil butter, parsley and more butter.
Lacked flavour for me so I was slightly disappointed, particularly as on the table next to us the couple ordered a steak that looked amazing. Massive dinner envy. Still you got to try sometimes. Sims was not much better, she ordered a vegetable casserole but what arrived was a plate of over steamed vegetables, you know when the beans go that khaki green colour. Not great. We head out for a gelato and decide to walk back along the waterfront rather than bus it.
It's a pretty place at night too. They've done the lighting really well, illuminating the old fortress walls on monte Urgull and the small island of Clara. Crowning monte Urgull is an illuminated talk statue of Christ looking over the whole city. It's a very beautiful place.
Looking forward to exploring more tomorrow and hopefully some sun too.
mat + sim
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